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  • R Mansfield

New to the game: The Coat

The redesign of the collection has taken place over the past few days, or at least attempted to. While processing this information, there has been something of a creative block, as opposed to a requisite frenzy. Since this is the case, there has been a focus on the beginnings of creation of the Coat-Outfit 1. This is an outfit I am near certain I want to include, and the pressure to create and be ready for the first fittings in just a few weeks is beginning to case some concerns. Therefore, I began with this piece, starting with the block and alterations upon that, followed by the drafting of the skirt, to create the base, which would allow for the opening of the back of the coat, which provides thr unique nature of the wrap around coat dress, revealing the internal evolution of the body in the garment which will be featured underneath. The coat was progressing well, and the toile had achieved the desired fit, allowing for the pattern alterations facilitating the opening of the coat back, which follows as the attachment of a lapel, creating the break line which determines the placement and sit of the garment against the form. However, upon creating this, there were grievous issues with fit. The quantity of fabric at the high collar were far too much and overhung in an undesirable way around the form, followed by fit issues around the waist where they had not been previously which is greatly distressing as it calls into consideration how the coat itself will work, and how the addition of the lapel has so drastically altered the pattern it requires an entirely new set of alterations and, hence, a new toile. This sets me back so much and has diminished spirit and my timing expectations for the whole outfit as the solutions are not entirely clear, the areas fit are unusual, and the understanding of what to do is minimal. This is not what was needed.


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